This is a very similar procedure to perming, but instead of waving straight hair, you straighten wavy hair. Straightening is potentially more damaging: the solution is put on at scalp level, the hair is gradually pulled straight with a special comb, and when sufficiently straight it is ‘fixed’ in this shape. It is most commonly used on Black hair, and some of the worst cases of hair breakage occur unless great care is taken. Straightening is done more often than perming – approximately every six to eight weeks – so the risk of overlapping previous processing is considerable. It is this overlap­ping that causes most problems. It is always best to have straightening done by a professional who can carefully monitor the process. Remember that the temperature of the room can increase the speed of chemical reactions, working faster on a hot day than on a cold day, something your hair stylist should also bear in mind. Therefore careful monitoring is essential every time your hair is permed – another reason for professional care.

 

It is important to deep-condition your hair twice a week for two weeks prior to either process. There are some excellent deep-con­ditioning products available, and it is best to use one of them rather than attempt to make your own. However, if you prefer it, I recom­mend the following recipe. Whisk together:

 

-         1oz of any heavy-conditioning cream

-         2 eggs

-         1oz of a light vegetable oil

 

Apply over the hair in one-inch partings, paying particular attention to the ends. Lightly rub the mixture into the ends between your thumb and finger tips. Leave under a bathing cap for up to half an hour, then shampoo and condition as usual. After perming, wait a few days, then use the mixture again.

 

Never perm (or straighten) your hair on the same day as color­ing it. It is best to leave a week in between, perming first and then coloring a week later. For the best results, deep-condition your hair between perming and coloring.

 

Avoid perming if the skin on your scalp is inflamed or broken. If the scalp becomes inflamed or irritated after perming, apply a solu­tion of cold milk and water in equal parts, which should help to soothe it. If the condition persists, you should really consult a der­matologist.

 

It is important to remember that hair grows half an inch (1.25cm) a month, so think about the potential overlapping problems.

 

Perming virgin hair seldom results in disaster; however, perming previously permed hair can do a great deal of damage -1 have seen ends of hair that look and feel like Brillo. A good way to avoid this is to protect the ends with a heavy fat such as unsalted butter before the perm solution is applied. ‘Root perms’, whereby only the roots or unpermed part of the hair are permed, attempt to address this problem, but this is a rather troublesome procedure, as the over­lapping of already permed hair is difficult to avoid and the scalp often suffers as a result.

 

I am not attempting to put you off perming – it can be an immense boost to your morale. I am just pointing out the dangers.

 

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